Sunday, August 29, 2010

Wine Review: 2005 Used Automobile Parts

Used Automobile Parts is a Napa Valley Bordeaux-style red blend produced by Three Loose Screws, a division of Don Sebastiani & Sons. It's seemingly really hard to find; in fact, there's little-to-no information available anywhere online - not even on Don Sebastiani & Sons website. According to other blogs, it is their only high-end wine, priced at approximately $50 a bottle. I bought it because of the quirky name and simple bottle, plus the fact that it was a Napa red blend.

It's a fantastic wine. Very typical of Napa red blends. Dark fruit. Quite tannic. Really elegant wine. Served with grilled ribeye, "woodshed" potatoes, and broccoli casserole at Ye Olde Steakhouse in South Knoxville. Helped make for an awesome Sunday semi-country dinner.

New Year's Resolution Update: What's Left?

I needed to get an idea of how many I've visited - let's take look....

Been there:
Le Parigo
Coolato Gelato
Dead End BBQ
S&W Grand
Steamboat Sandwiches
Savelli's
T. Ho Bistro / The Pint House

Need to go:
Cafe 4
R.T. Lodge
Dancing Bear Lodge
Apple Cake Tea Room
501 Arthur
Longhorn Steakhouse
Echo Bistro & Wine Bar
Bonefish Grill
RouXbarb
Seasons Cafe
Ho Ho
Pizza Palace
Chandler's
Sunspot
La Rumba
Altruda's
Red Onion Pizza
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse

Hmmm....my progress is not so good. I am seven months into the year and have only gone to 7 of 25 - one a month! Regardless, I can no longer go to R.T. Lodge, as it is now closed to the public, and I doubt I will go to Fleming's as I just spent way too much money at Ruth's Chris, so that will probably come off the list. I'd like to add, however, Restaurant Linderhof in place of R.T. I went there years ago, but want to re-try.

New Year's Resolution Update: Steamboat Sandwiches Review

Ventured over to Steamboat Sandwiches on Market Square in downtown Knoxville last week to continue my New Year's resolution challenge.

My immediate reaction to Steamboat is laid out in a really odd manner. The restaurant is long and narrow and they've unfortunately not handled it well. The open kitchen runs all the way down the right side of the restaurant, while tables are scattered all along the left and middle. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something is off. Regardless, I like the colors and photos and they've added a cool artistic touch to the otherwise boring concrete floor.

The other thing I noticed is that the staff is not terribly speedy. While they were very nice and informative, for a grab and go sandwich shop that's not really cooking anything, I have to say it's a little slow. I'm not expecting an assembly line like Subway or Lenny's, but it's pretty lax.

I ordered a half smoked chicken sandwich on their homemade wheat with lettuce, tomato, muenster cheese, and mayo. It was, in fact, pretty good. I wish I'd gotten chips or something with it, as it didn't quite do it for me as a complete meal, but the whole sandwich looked way too big. The pricing was consistent with other downtown Knoxville sandwich shops, which I'd argue are all a $1 or $2 too high...

If I'm not in a hurry and want a sandwich, I will check it out again.

Steamboat Sandwiches - 3/5 stars

S&W Grand

S&W Grand continues to become the place to be downtown Knoxville. Last weekend, I enjoyed a fantastic dinner there with a meal that included their daily special, John Dory with preserved lemon and gigande beans, plus a bottle of one of my favorite wines, 2006 Bell Claret. And the garlicy, buttery pop-overs that's served with your meal are to-die-for. I can't imagine anyone else in Knoxville is offering food on this level, other than the Northshore Brasserie, of course. The restaurant was completely full and buzzing. There was such a great vibe...

Follow that up with a stop by this Friday night to another packed house for Donald Brown's jazz night. Once again - amazing energy. We sat on the patio and enjoyed a couple of new-to-me wines - Spellbound Petite Sirah from Northern California and Clean Slate Riesling from Mosel, Germany. I've never had Riesling. I'm not a sweet wine fan and was under the impression all Rieslings were sweet. This wine was simply fantastic - full of minerality while not being too sweet at all.

I think there's great things ahead for the S&W!

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Red Sauce

If you haven't seen the "Techniques" episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, you should keep an eye out for it. It's not only one of the best episodes of this series, but hands-down some of the best 60 minutes of culinary instruction I've ever seen on television.

One of the foods covered in the episode is red sauce. Presented by Scott Conant of New York's Scarpetta restaurant, red sauce is made in a way that's easy to prepare at home. I modified this recipe to use canned tomatoes from my grandparent's farm in Jonesborough, TN (as opposed to all fresh - though I did supplement with 1.5 fresh tomatoes), and did not have any garlic around, but otherwise stuck to the basic recipe/technique.

After a few other attempts at a homemade red sauce, I finally got close to what I am looking for with this process. Basically you cook down your tomatoes for 45-60 minutes with salt and add a basil and red pepper flake (and garlic, ideally) infused olive oil, plus a pinch of additional red pepper flake. Combine cooked noodles (I used parpadelle noodles for this preparation) in a saute pan with the sauce and toss with fresh chopped basil fresh grated parmesan. Delicious!





Sunday, August 22, 2010

Zucchini

Zucchini ala Red Lobster, circa 1993
Not sure if Red Lobster really used cornmeal, but it tasted close to what I remember. I think I am going to try using seasoned breadcrumbs next time and incorporate grated parmesan cheese into the batter.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Okra, Revisited

Fried Baby Okra
Parmesan and Lemon

A slightly different approach tonight...

Dipped whole baby okras in buttermilk and rolled them in cornmeal, then fried the baby okras in vegetable oil. Squeezed on a bit of lemon juice and then topped with shaved parmesan and a bit of salt. It was sort of inspired by two different dishes - first, fried zucchini "chips" with parmesan at Red Lobster (yes, Red Lobster) back in the late 80s / early 90s, which I loved as a kid, and, second, whole fried okras I had at Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery in the Haight in San Francisco a couple of years ago. I could have eaten these all night. Really nice eating the small ones whole.

Next...I'm going to try to re-create the Red Lobster zucchini and maybe try frying various pickles. Also, going to try to substitute panko for cornmeal...

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Okra

As Brandy said, things you have to pat dry after cooking are awesome. Case in point - fried okra. Served with cube steak and my grandmother's green beans and corn bread. Awesome.

Before
After


The Patting

The Meal

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Appalachia, Two Ways

Had two amazing food experiences this weekend at "home" in the northeast Tennessee / southwest Virginia region.

Saturday night found us back at Town House in Chilhowie, VA to try to the new summer menu - about seven months since we'd last visited in the dead of winter.


My opinion on the food last time was somewhat undecided, as it was the first time I'd truly experienced molecular gastronomy. I honestly didn't quite know what to think.

This time, all was certain. The food was amazing. They've really focused some of the dishes and plating. The restaurant was full and buzzing. The wine was excellent. Charlie Berg and his team's service was top-notch, once again. And, John Shields, recently named one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2010, visited the table briefly. A new element this time was a take-away gift from John's wife and executive pastry chef, Karen Urie Shields, of garlic and sesame buns.

I could go on and on. Overall, it was an amazing experience. No doubt it's in my top five restaurant experiences ever. I can't wait to go again and share this experience with friends.

I forgot got to get a copy of the dang menu, but I think this is the meal. (Don't quote me on the names.) I've included photo approximations of some of the dishes we had below. All photos courtesy of Town House Blog; these are not my personal photos!

Savory Cookie (Amuse Bouche)
Chilled Vegetable Minestrone
The Orange from Valencia
Soup of Cherries
Scrambled Egg Mousse
Blue Crab in Brown Butter & Lime
"Risotto" of Squid
Squab, Foie Gras Royale & Crisp Chicken Skin
Cap of Beef Cooked in Ash
Stones
Blueberries & Lychee

plus...
"House" Sparkling Wine - glass
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay - 1/2 bottle
Louis Latour Beanue 1er Cru Vignes Franches (Burgundy Pinot Noir) - 1/2 bottle
2002 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Right Bank (Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend) - bottle

And then...

We visited my grandparents today for lunch in Jonesborough, TN. Wow, what an opposite, but equally amazing culinary experience. Fried green tomatoes. Fresh corn. Macaroni salad with orange tomatoes from up the street and red peppers from the back garden. Canned green beans from the farm. Corn bread. Pot roast with fresh carrots and potatoes. Fresh peach and blueberry cobbler. One amazing thing after another. I wish I could eat like this every day. The most exciting thing - you can't buy food this good anywhere. I'm lucky to be able to have this.

After that, we picked a few fruits and vegetables from the garden with my papaw and grabbed some canned beans and tomatoes from 2009.

Check them out:






Monday, August 9, 2010

2006 Chiarello Family Vineyards "Roux" Old Vine Petite Sirah

Oh, Napa Valley, why did I leave you?

After going wine-less for a few days, it was about time to open a bottle. Brandy and I decided on the 2006 Chiarello Family Vineyards "Roux" Old Vine Petite Sirah. We originally had it at Michael Chiarello's restaurant Bottega back in July.

It's dark purple, almost black. Think ink. Really concentrated, dark fruit flavors. Not much sweetness on the palate, but a little oaky, sweet vanilla in the aroma - almost fine bourbon-like. Pretty tannic. Reminds me alot of the '05 and '06 Bell Clarets. I wish I could describe this wine so that every sommelier would know exactly what I want.

I wish I had more...must order soon!

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Patton Oswalt on his drive to Asheville

"Just passed a place called 'Meal Barn.' Good to see Thomas Keller experimenting."

Finally, a full wine fridge!

Thank you, Napa Valley, for a full fridge of wine.

Let's see...what do we have here?
  • 2007 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards "Right Bank Cuvee" Napa Valley Merlot (60%) / Cabernet Franc (40%)
  • 2006 Buoncristiani Family Winery "The Core" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2006 Buoncristiani Family Winery "O.P.C." Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine
  • 2008 Buoncristiani Family Winery "Dolcetto di Nonno" Dry Creek Valley Dolcetto
  • 2006 Chiarello Family Vineyards "Roux Old Vine" Napa Valley Petite Sirah
  • 2006 Ghost Horse Vineyards "Shadow" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2006 Ghost Horse Vineyards "Fantome" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2007 Melka Wines "CJ" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • ...and then a few more Napas purchased locally...

Monday, August 2, 2010

The Best Wine Ever?

Isn't it ironic that the best wine I've ever tasted in fact came from the very vintner who told me he couldn't rightfully say to anyone that any wine was the best wine ever? Don't ya think?

Brandy and I opened a bottle of 2006 Ghost Horse 100% Cabernet Sauvignon last Monday. I feared that the wine (all of the Ghost Horse offerings, that is) for which I'd had such fond memories from Todd Anderson's Ghost Horse Vineyard would be nothing more than a decent to really good wine served at a really special moment. But, no, when the bottle was opened and a small portion poured me to smell, I was floored. Oh my god. How can this be? How can wine, hell, anything, smell this good? Other Cabernets should be ashamed. And then the taste, oh my. I never wanted the bottle to be empty. How can I ever drink another wine? I know, to remind me how damn good Ghost Horse is!

Luckily, I have a couple more bottles to go. I have no idea how I'm not going to drink them immediately. I figure I need to sit on them for a couple for a couple of years. If I could only afford a case...

Oh, and I still have the Ghost Horse Fantome to go!



New Year Resolution - Quick Update

A quick update on my goal to visit 25 new-to-me restaurants. These three visits/reviews will make 6/25.

I went to Coolato Gelato for lunch last week and ordered the club panini. I'm not a huge panini fan, but it was pretty decent. It was a really big, filling sandwich with an interesting addition of pickled green tomato, but for $8.50 including a side, I'd honestly rather go to a different downtown establishment and pay less (or the same for a full-service experience). I just didn't love it, but I don't suppose I hated it either. I did not particularly enjoy the decor or vibe in there, either. I was also a little miffed to find out the next day (via their storefront board) that each sandwich came with a free serving of gelato in the month of July and they didn't offer this to us. Other than that, the service was typical of an order and wait sandwich type place, i.e. no real interaction outside of ordering and paying.
3/5 stars

I've been to the S&W a few times recently, but I will highlight two, mainly. Once for dinner before going on vacation and once last week for lunch.

The vibe has improved in the downstairs area. They recently knocked down a wall that separated the bar, which made it feel more comfortable. Still, it's a large space to fill and can be a bit overwhelming at times.

At dinner, I order the daily special ribeye (simply grilled) with sauteed swiss chard. It was a really solid steak, actually. Nice, clean flavors - not a heavy steak, somehow, despite that it was a ribeye. For lunch I had the skirt steak salad with beets, grilled radicchio and pink Roquefort dressing. Individually, the flavors were solid, but the overall dish struggled to find balance for me. Despite the the sweet beet flavor balancing the strong Roquefort, there was simply too much bitter blackened radicchio on the plate, which overwhelmed everything else, in my opinion. Maybe I am just not a radicchio fan... (The skirt steak entree with black beans, etc. is TO-DIE-FOR, however. And, yes, I like steak.)

The service has always been good at the S&W for me. I prefer to sit a the bar, so I generally always get the same server/bartender, who is excellent. The manager, Jordan, is also top-notch and takes good care of us.

My overall feelings towards S&W are sort of "slightly better than neutral," or, perhaps "mixed" is a better term, right now, so my rating would be 3.75/5 stars. However, I know they are planning to fine-tune the menu and work on the environment. I have high hopes. Their other restaurant, Northshore Brasserie, is not only my favorite in town, but is one of my all-time favs.

Finally stopped at Savelli's after having driven by what seems like a million times.

The decor and ambiance struggle for me. It's a hodge-podge of tables, chairs, "art," etc. Lots of empty wine bottles, too. Sometime things like this come off as cool (e.g. Chez Guevara in Knoxville) and would be considered by most to be hip dive bars/restaurants, while other times (and most times) it just comes off as tacky. Savelli's suffers from the latter.

The food is pretty good. I've been twice. The first time was better overall. The salad was really enjoyable, featuring a homemade balsamic vinaigrette. The fettuccine alfredo is the best thing I've had, well, beside their garlicy grilled ciabatta bread (which is AWESOME). Their not-so-crispy fried calamari was not good. Don't get it - unless you like limpy, soggy breaded calamari.

The service is pretty middle of the pack. They allow outside wine for a nominal $3.00/head corkage fee, but let you handle the opening, etc. Usually paying a fee gets you a little service, but not here. Oh well, I'll open my own wine if I'm only paying $3.00 and can drink whatever I want. Other than that, I can't say much about the service. It's not great, and it's not bad.

3.25/5 stars

(Reminder/FYI - my ratings are "gut feeling" reactions based on decor/ambiance, food/drinks, and service. I judge the restaurants in-and-of-themselves for the type of establishment they are. I figure it's not fair to rate In-N-Out Burger against The French Laundry, as they provide two totally different types of experiences.)